About 7:30 a.m. June 23rd, with gas costing $1.359 @ litre, I depart from Morden. With several changes of clothes, drugs, medications, insulin, blood glucose meter, and a sleep apnea machine, I feel like a travelling pharmaceutical Rep! In addition to all this, I have maps, brochures, sunglasses, water, and my new 4 week old high tech digital camera - on which I can operate the on/off switch. All this, and my I.D. Canada cap from Dollorama! It is my intent to see all towns, villages, and hamlets between Trans Canada #1 & #16 to the Saskatchewan border. Bon voyage Morden!
I proceed north on PRR# 432, locally known as the Rosebank road, turn west on PTH #23, then north on PTH#34 and head for Holland (Manitoba style). I go to the corner Mohawk gas bar & café, which officially closed that day. Off to the downtown, and the Hollander Motor Hotel for my breakfast. It’s a typical small sixties or seventies built Hotel. I sit down at 9:00 a.m., as the only patron and order my usual sausage, eggs, hash browns, and dry rye toast. Slowly the coffee crowd drifts in. The final count comes to 8 guys my age, and 7 women, along with one young gal. The guys discuss cattle and haying, and I exchange pleasantries with the older gentleman sitting across from me.
Back in the driver's seat I continue north on PTH#34 to the Trans Canada and Austin. I am skipping Sideny, Austin, and MacGregor as I toured these 3 villages in the early 70’s when I was with MTS. So across #1 and north on PTH#16 to Gladstone - also referred to as “Happy Rock”. Before getting to Gladstone I turn into their Golf & County Club on #34, 4 kms south of Gladstone. It boasts a 9 hole course that appears much like Roland’s. It has a rustic looking Club house with an L shaped deck about 20-24 feet wide, with outdoor tables. I ordered a sandwich and coffee, and having finished lunch, headed north again to Gladstone, a community of 848 people. There is a mix of old and new housing, and a community pool. It has a busy bakery with one sidewalk table. Delmar Commodities Ltd., a grain company, owned by the Mayor of Winkler, has a facility here, as well as at Jordan, and Somerset.
I now top up my gas tank at the Co-op Hwy Gas Bar @$1.339 and head east on PTH #16 to Woodside. After 1872, it had a daily train, train station, section house, stockyards, a Post Office, 2 stores, and a school. Now all that is left east of the Whitemud river is a large stone monument with a plaque about Woodside and a Canadian flag.
From Woodside I proceed south on PRR#350 to Katrina. Just off the road to the west, stands a lone Pool elevator. It appears to still be in good shape, and only recently abandoned, with a satellite dish still attached to the office. The south side of the approach is tree lined and there are 3 manicured yard sites close by. I decide I’ll take a picture of the Katrina elevator, but my camera wouldn’t function and I’m somewhat devastated. I look through the trouble shooting section of the manual, and determine it must be the film chip. Disappointed I lay it aside, then turn west on the municipal road system until I again reach PRR#34, turn north, heading back to Gladstone. I then go west on PTH #16 to the junction of PRR#352. #352 proceeding south is a good gravel road, and reminds me of old #3 from Morden to Winnipeg some 50 odd years ago. #352 on the west side, has about a 50 foot high embankment all the way to the hamlet of Edrans, therefore no view to the west.
Edrans has a well maintained church and community hall, plus an outdoor rink. There are 6 new homes, 2 others, and one mobile home. It is absolutely tranquil, with no one around.
Firdale, further south down the road at the CN tracks is no more. I am now back on #1 west to Carberry.
Carberry is an older established town of some 1502 people, with many older homes, some 25-30 new homes, and a neat old time Main street. It has an Anglican and a United Church that are kitty corner to an old brick Presbyterian church. Carberry also sports a G.M. dealership. Going west on PRR #351 I find what has to be the most patched section of asphalt in the province! There is little orginal pavement, no shoulders, and the grass runs right up to the edge of the road. Yet it is a beautiful winding drive - both for the soul and the mind.
The next stop is Douglas - an old 2 street hamlet on the south side of the CN main line - which has a general store and school. I leave Douglas going west via PRR #457, which is also designated as “Veterans Way” probably because of it’s proximity to the Shilo Forces base.
This takes me to Carter, which is as neat as a pin, with not more than a dozen homes. It is a real contrast to Douglas, just down the road. This area is all open prairie.
I now divert from my orginal plan because of my Fujifilm high tech camera. I cannot return home without pictures, when it has the capability of taking up to 200 images!
I head into Brandon to the mall at the south end of the city on Hwy #10/18th Street. Here I seek out the Source store, and explained to a young chap waiting for me in the aisle, that I am unable to make this camera function. I told him I felt the memory chip might be damaged. He took a cursory look, pushed a few buttons and voila - there are my pictures!
The veins in my neck expand, my rage builds, and I want to choke someone or something, because I become so frustrated with this microchip world. But I am grateful, and thank him, politely.
I top up with gas at Shell @ $1.324 and depart from Brandon, camera ready.
North on PTH #10 lies the village of Forest. It is split in half by this major Hwy, with the High School to the East and the Elementary School to the West. It consists of about 6 newer homes, and 6 older homes, as well as an abandoned Pool elevator. About 4 -5 Kms north of Forest sits the largest Viterra (formerly Pool, formerly Agricore -United) inland terminal I’ve seen, served by the CN Rail Line.Just before Viterra’s terminal, and to the west, on the gravel municipal road and then north on PRR #468 at the CN rail line lies “Justice”. Like the old saying “ Not only must justice be done, but seen to be done”. This hamlet of about 9 homes and an abandoned Pool elevator also has a seventies geodesic home. Moore Park is on the Provincial map, but can’t be found. This leaves me travelling west on PRR #353 to Brookdale, on the open prairie - which is flat as far as the eye can see. Brookdale is a community of about 20 homes, a P.O., and newer Community Centre with a 2 sheet curling rink. It has a 60’s style elementary school. The whole village is as neat as a pin. There is no evidence of any rail line. About 6-7 kms east you find an abandoned elevator. The next stop going east on PRR #353 and PTH #5 is Welland. It has about a 6-10 acre Auto wrecking operation that is entirely fenced in. It has a mix of mostly older homes with an abandoned sports field, but a well cared for Community Hall.
Back tracking on PTH #5 about 2 km west of Wellwood, you find 5 huge storage buildings with signage reading "Spud Plains Farms". Waiting for the summer/fall crop are 2 mechanical potato pickers and 10 potato hauling trucks - a bit like what you would run into at Winkler. Other new storage facilities are under construction around this area.
Proceeding north on PTH #5 to Neepawa, I pass a non existent Halboro, which, again is still on the provincial road map.
I arrive at Lee’s Village Restaurant in Neepawa around 7 p.m. as a light rain begins. I want to check this Restaurant out, as the former owners now operate the Kopper Kettle in Morden. The two customers there leave shortly after I sit down, and I am now the lone customer. I place my order with the waitress, and mention that I’m from Morden, and did she know the previous owners, Albert and Sheila. Yes she does, and advises me that the new owners are not very outgoing, and stick to themselves. Her shift over, she leaves, and my dinner is brought out by the owner/chef. He asks me about Albert and Sheila, and if they have turned the Morden restaurant over to a Chinese menu. I responded that they served Canadian dishes, and had added a Chinese menu. I then asked him where he was from. He replied "Onno". "What?" "Onno". Well, between my bad hearing and his bad English, it finally hit me……."Do you mean Toronto?" "Yes, yes, Onno."
"So why Neepawa?" "Too many people in Onno, too many people." "Ok so that’s a long way from family?" "Family in China." "Were they hit by the earthquake?" "No, no, that in Northern China, family in Southern china, no earthquake." I ask him about accommodations, and he suggests Neepawa Motel. Now finished with my veal & veggies, I pay, thank him and depart. I think to myself it’s not too often you get to speak to people on an international level, even if it’s via 'Onno'. I book into the Neepawa Motel on Hwy #16 and unload my pharmaceutical stockroom and bags.
It is about 8:00 o’clock in the evening as I begin to travel about this community of 3298 people. A famous Canadian author originated from here - Margaret Lawrence - but I have never read any of her books. I pass the house she was raised in, then take in the very neat, orderly, and beautiful town site. They claim to be Manitoba’s most beautiful town, and they well may be. There is well kept housing and yards, and a new 25 housing development south on PTH #5. In the southeast end of town across from Park Lake and its tributary, the valley continues north of #16 and is overlooked by Eastview Lodge, a 5-6 story senior home, and what a view it must be. You also overlook the sports grounds with a large and small outdoor pool. Further east is a Campground for R.V.’s. There are many large trees, and there are times you feel as if you are left on the stop frame button of 50’s, 60’s, & 70's. The Churches here - Calvary Chapel, St Dominic’s Roman Catholic, Knox Presbyterian are all on the same side of First Ave between Ellen and Hamilton Streets. They appear to be in a horse race for Win, Show, & Place, or if viewed from the east, all sitting in the starting gate, ready to snatch you off
those pagan streets. Then I came upon Riverside Cemetery. It is vast, and every person who ever lived here must be buried here, or comes back to be buried here. It is very large with very old tall pine trees, and in the vacant area’s about 6-8 ft sculptured pines. Every headstone and base is level, straight, and erect. About 75% of the grave sites have a flowerbed with no less that a dozen multi-coloured petunia
plants.
Forget their Lily festival - go to Riverside! It is a beautiful park-like setting and expresses much reverence for the dead. Neepawa has most of life’s amenities, including a few well-known names like Safeway, McDonald’s, and Dairy Queen - which I visited. It has the three Americam car dealerships G.M., Ford, and Chrsyler, as well as the major implement dealerships, CaseIH, New Holland, Massey Ferguson, and John Deere.
So, if it’s not the most beautiful town in Manitoba, it’s darn close!
Day 2
I depart from beautiful Neepawa about 7 a.m., heading for breakfast in Minnedosa, but stop in at the hamlet of Franklin. Franklin is framed by the northern escarpment running parallel to PTH #16. Crossing the C.P. line is a small Viterra (Pool) agri operation, a fairly large brick Memorial Hall and about 10 older homes, unprotected from the elements. A lab dog is roused from his resting spot in the middle of the road - he probably hasn’t moved for any traffic for some time, especially not this early in the morning.
I leave Franklin for the town from where the late media mogul Izzy Asper hailed, and Manitoba's 15th premier Walter Weir (1967). Heading down the valley into Minnedosa it appears untidy, tired and weary from life’s struggles, and it dampens the good spirits I had that morning. I enter the Café of the Minnedosa Inn and a few of the local coffee crowd are there. I sit at a window table and look up at limp curtains. Across the way I see “W.C. Fields” - at least I’m dam sure it's W.C. Fields, sitting alone, having coffee. This was a man who captivated audiences with lines like, "A man's got to believe in something. I believe I’ll have another drink." A half a dozen C.P. rail guys come in and sit down, as Minnedosa seems to be a bit of C.P. Rail depot. A waitress, the only waitress and cook, comes and takes my order. She moves around like a wind-up doll. My eyes wander over to a wall hanging with three wolves on it, ready to pounce on and eat the first breakfast that appears. Once again I glance over at W.C. He must be a clone. Above the kitchen door is a picture of a diner with classic 1950’s cars that have red tail lights that blink, as do the lights on the diner. I find this item tacky. My breakfast of sausage, eggs, cubed potatoes, and dry rye toast arrives, and W.C. leaves. I finish my breakfast, and leave to do more exploring. The turn of the century Court House is similar to Morden’s without the open-space setting. As for the Minnedosa Civic Centre - it is much like the Morden Art Gallery. The old Anglican Church is an early field stone structure. The cenotaph in centre of town is guarded by an old WW ll tank. Just a little north of the cenotaph is a tiny park with an old C.P. Passenger train engine and caboose. A local creek runs by the park. I drive by Minnedosa’s 18 hole Golf course to check it out, and see more golf cart shed storage than at any other course. Well, I sort of have my fill of Minnedosa, and head west on PTH #16 to Basswood. Basswood feels like you are in cottage country. The only action is an auto body shop with some older homes that are well spaced. Next stop Newdale. It has a Cargill pre-inland terminal elevator, and a Co-op Food Centre which is closed. The New Leisure Restaurant is up for sale, and there is a Drop In Centre, and a Credit Union. It also has the Harrison House Senior Home and a 1926 Community Hall. RTM Transport has about a 10 acre depot here.
Next stop - Strathclair - reminds me a bit of Miami. It has a tiny old Hotel, a Drop In & Gift Shop, Co-op Grocery, Credit Union, and Calton Centennial Lodge. It has the whitest painted United Church around, with 5-7 new homes in the area. Heading west now on PTH #16 to Shoal Lake which seems to be sitting at the cross roads with 680 people. It has lost 120 people in the last 5 years. Its hold as a regional centre seems tentative. There is a newer Shoal Lake -Strathclair Health Centre, new fire hall, and a goodly number of amenities, along with a Chrysler dealership. Agri-wise there is Massey Ferguson, New Holland, John Deere, and Kabota. You can also include the 9 hole Lakeside Golf Course. Kellog is on the provincial map, but can’t be found.
Solsgirth, still on PTH #16, has a pre-terminal abandoned Cargill elevator with a satellite dish. There are two abandoned churches in the tall grass, one of which is Eastern Orthodox. Foxwarren has a unique memory garden, in which there is a plant for each person memorialized, with the name of its contributor or family. There is a small Viterra depot along with a leisure centre and little used mini golf course, plus a library, another very white painted United Church and a Masonic Hall. All the homes are modest and very well kept.
Binscarth is a 395 peopled community on PTH #41 north. Located here is a Paterson inland terminal with a sign indicating it is celebrating it’s 100th anniversary. There is an old Hotel, Vanguard Credit Union, and a Métis Cultural Centre.
Russell is the last major stop on the Yellowhead Hwy before you enter Saskatchewan. This service centre of 1428 people has lost 159 souls in the past 5 years. The chamber claims a 1700 count population. However this has not taken anything away from it’s vibrancy. There is activity on the streets and a bit of a buzz all around town. It has almost all the amenities one requires , for recreation, health, schooling, and agri-business, and only one brand name - an A&W Restaurant. It has the most attractive Civic Centre I know, of set in a free space area, with a combination flag, flower, fountain arrangement in front. It is a striking public area of town. Another factor not seen in other towns are the 9 big timber arches that criss-cross each intersection along Main Street, forming a prairie 'Arc de Triomphe' all the way down Main Street. 
Clever marketing, I’d say! I was last here for the 1973 MTS operator strike, and recall an older hotel where the world’s most tasty and delicious soups of my life were devoured. I hailed a town employee getting into his pickup and ask, "Where’s the best place for lunch?" He recommends the Assessippi Inn just up the street on Main. It is an older establishment that has probably seen more than one renovation in its life. I notice the special of the day is a cheeseburger plate. I ask the trim young waitress if their burgers are better than the A & W’s (which is located at the end of Main on Hwy #16). She responds that she doesn’t like A&W burgers. Ok! I think to myself, and order their special. I bite into the non-descript burger and my taste buds go wild! It is the most succulent and delicious burger I’ve had in decades, and I savour the moment. The waitress is right on, who would want to eat an A&W burger after this, ever. I also recall back in '73 the Clement families operated most of the enterprises in town, such as International Harvester, G.M. dealership, a Hardware store, and other businesses.They are still there, but there presence has waned, or their siblings have moved on. Russell is also the home of Manitoba’s Beef & Barley Festival held annually in October. Well one more stop before the Saskatchewan border, at a place called Harrowby.
Harrowby has been totally replaced by a CanAmera Foods plant that processes canola, served by the C.P. rail line, the only evidence of Harrowby is it’s graveyard east of the plant. You take an excellent gravel road in a southerly direction and descend into the Assiniboine River Valley. This is wide open, big sky country with no traffic and sparse dwellings. You are eventually taken to the bottom of the Valley and cross the Assiniboine River at Millwood, which is identified by a Hwy sign from both directions about 100 metres apart. Millwood has a long abandoned school, partially hidden by a grove of trees. I continue south until I happen upon PRR #478 and go east towards Binscarth, which was visited earlier.
At the junction of PTH #41 running north and south, I head south to St Lazare, a French community which hugs the east side of the Assiniboine valley. It is a quaint tiny hamlet/village, and it seems to ooze character. Commerce wise it seems to be dominated by the Fouillard families. There is Fouillard Carpets Ltd., Fouillard Furniture & Appliances Ltd., Fouillard Discount Centre, Fouillard Implement Ltd., Fouillard Steel Supplies Ltd. and to top it off a street, Fouillard Avenue W. St LaZare’s population is 265 and hasn’t changed in the last 5 years, with 26 families of Fouillard’s listed in the Telephone directory. I run into one of the Fouillards at their Steel Supply shop and he tells me he is a 3rd generation Fouillard and his grandfather settled here in 1903. The Fouillard business has a long reach - as far as Moosomin Sask. It has a surprisingly well stocked grocery store, called Decorby’s Family Foods, with what seems to be a better than average meat products section. I pick up one banana and the check out person/owner refuses payment. I ask him how much for the Moosomin Paper he says a dollar and I leave him with a loonie and a quarter. There is also a bakery & café, along with old standby Vanguard Credit Union. The Fort Ellice Hotel, places you right on the set of the old “Newhart” T.V. Show. You are just waiting for Larry and his brother Daryl, and his other brother Daryl to spill out onto the porch trailed by Bob Newhart himself. I enter the small lobby and peek into the parlour which is not much bigger than your average living room, with 3 VLT machines. The French-accented server asks me where I’m from. I say "Morden". "Oh yah, close to where the tornadoes came down." "No, we weren’t close to any tornadoes. They were over by Niverville where I bought my car. Niverville is a lot closer to Winnipeg than Morden." "Well I don’t use a map," he replies. My van groans climbing back up PTH #41 east. It is a steep gas consuming climb.
At the Jct PTH # 42, I head east to Birtle, home to 662 people, situated in the Birdtail River Valley. It kind of reminds me of La Riviere. It has a good core of business, mixed housing, tree lined streets, and appears very liveable. Co-op gas here is $1.28@litre. The one exception in Birtle is that its MTS office is a brick structure , whereas all the other offices of the 70’s were stucco and siding. I’ll have to make some inquiries. Moving on down PTH #83, then west on PRR #355 to Isabelle long gone, so are the railroad tracks, leaving a dilapidated old Pool elevator. But it has a well kept, charming, metal clad United Church. Decker, a few miles east, has an old weathered abandoned service station, with an old 1970 Olds sitting in the tall grass. It has 4 homes and one abandoned one, and a small brick United Church which still appears active. As I pass the church and turn the corner and stop to observe an abandoned 2 story frame house of 1920-30 v
intage, I see movement in the grass. There, some 20 ft away is a young fox. I frantically look for my camera, open my van door and leave it open so as not to scare this fox. I slip around the front of the van, and it sees me, but is not frightened off. I snap a few pictures. It then rises out of the grass and goes under the van. I backtrack and move further away from the van, then see him under the van sniffing the deferential. He turn and heads for the opposite side of road and flops down in the taller grass. jumping up now and then to snap at a grasshopper, completely oblivious to me. I continue taking pictures as it poses, and I hang around for about another 5-10 minutes. I feel this will be the hi-lite of my trip. I check the pictures on my camera and I am pleased. Lavina canot be found, so onward east to McConnell. McConnell consists of 2 abandoned former Pool elevators and railway, plus an abandoned church and old frame school house. Further east is Cardale, about 30 kilometres below Newdale. They sport a newer combined curling and skating rink, and their grounds are immaculate. There is a beautiful brick 1915 vintage church, along with a 2 story 1915 Consolidated School. There is also a Co-op, and Dora‘s Coffee Shop. Oak River is a pleasant peaceful place, with an abandoned U.G.G. elevator , new senior housing, fairly new and large United Church. I enter the local restaurant, but it is closing up as it nears 8:00 p.m.
I slip over to the small Blanchard Hotel, but his cook has left to attend to domestic matters. I view the living room size parlour which is waiting for a customer, any customer, and begin chatting with the proprietor, I assume. I mention seeing the young fox at Decker, and he in turn tells me about his cougar sighting in the vicinity.
I bid him adieu, and travel west on PTH #24 then north to Hamiota on PTH # 21.Hamiota seems to be a semi-regional town of 823 people. It again has the basic amenities, but also the region’s District Health Centre, a fairly decent facility. Vanguard Credit Union also has it’s biggest office building here. It’s early evening and a shower is threatening. I enter a large high-ceilinged restaurant with about 14 Tables, one server/cook, and me - the lone client. I order chicken fingers, I receive 3 chicken fingers with honey garlic sauce. They are hot and I must be careful not to burn my tongue. I am pushed for time, so make a cursory check of Hamiota. It has a fairly new attractive sports complex and baseball diamonds. It considers itself the "Baseball Capital of Manitoba". I do recall the many baseball teams coming from here, appearing at Morden’s July 1st baseball tournaments in late 50’s and into the 60’s, always with competitive teams. I point my van south on PTH #21, then west on PTH #24 and arrive at Crandell. Crandell is situated slightly north of PTH #24, has a little used trail/road from it’s south municipal road that curves over to the west municipal road. The trail accesses an abandoned United Church, Post Office/Hall, an old water pumphandle pump, a school cairn, and last but not least, a 5’x 5’ MTS shack.
Arrow River is a hamlet just north of PTH #24, with a few older scattered homes and what appears to be an aboriginal community. Proceeding west on PTH #24 to the jct of PTH #83 and a few kilometres north lies Miniota. It is a very down-sized version of Hamitoa, with a population base of 215 people. It has a recently built hall, arena, curling complex, plus Vanguard C.U. Its streets are gravel based, and it has planted trees on the abandoned Railway right-of-way. Twin Valley Co-op Ltd provides the groceries, farm supplies, and hardware needs to the area residents. Night is now coming upon me and I book into The Miniota Motor Inn, a 7 unit hotel, bar, and restaurant, 1960 vintage. There seems to be a little action here, as the front parking lot of the Inn has a long line of late model Fords, G.M.’s and Dodge pick-ups. I drive around to the back, unload my luggage and stuff, and head for the bar around 9 p.m. This living room sized bar is packed with young to late middle aged local golfers. I find a chair, set it up next to the bar, and take a chance on a Coors light beer, hoping it will have no ill effects on me. The Golf group call out their prizes and winners, while I avail myself of free popcorn and buy a package of peanuts. I retire around 10 p.m. for a good night’s sleep.
Day 3
I rise, feeling no ill effects from my one beer the previous night, load the van and head for breakfast. The dining area of the Miniota Motor Inn is huge - about a 40’x 60’ room with a 14-15 ft ceiling, nice and spacious. There are 3 long B.S. tables which can each accommodate 12 individuals. There are about 5-6 patrons seated, and an elderly gentleman comes to take my order. I order a western omelette and he goes off to the kitchen to prepare it. The kitchen has a large wide opening so staff can see you and you can see them. My omelette comes brimming with chopped ham and onions etc., but is slightly on the leathery side. I top up with petro at the Twin Valley Co-op @ 1.349 a litre. I leave around 8:00 a.m. a little later than I had hoped, but it is a beautiful day. I head south on PTH # 83 to the jct of PRR #457 west down into the scenic Assiniboine valley and up the other side to the endless flat prairie horizon. At the jct of PRR #256 I turn north to McMcAuley. After more than a few Kilometres, I realize I’ve missed Willen, but I haven’t! It’s now non-existent - which I confirm in McAuley.
Pressing on, I come upon the familiar signage announcing I am entering the R.M.of Archie. I immediately think of none other than “Archie Bunker” of 70’s sitcom fame. The R.M. of Archie is celebrating it’s 125 anniversary this year. McAuley is almost a "Petticoat Junction" sort of place. McAuley’s main drag, Qu’appelle Street, is as wide as Portage Ave. It has a combined curling rink and arena and a small mobile home type library. I enter the small 800 sq foot or less Archie office, and notice that they have retained some of the old office furnishings such as a slanted desk, an old typewriter, stamps, lamps, and ledger books. The remaining part of the office has today’s sophisticated technology. The lone gal behind the counter can’t be any more than 28-34 years old and I strike up a conversation with her. I ask her if she is the Secretary Treasure of the R.M. She replies "Yes." "And are you everything else?" Again she replies "Yes." "Awesome responsibilities and work load I’d say." She indicated that if she took 3 days off, it took a of effort to get back on track. However Council has approved a part time assistant. I then asked her where a person can have coffee. She said over at the School on the Hwy. A 1961 built school, no longer a teaching facility, has been turned into a community Mini Mall. It now houses the community store, cafeteria and thrift shop. The R.M. office, along with their library, are also thinking of relocating here. In a green space on the east side of the R.M. office is a small Memorial to those who served and died in WW I and WW II. The second World War had 174 individuals that enlisted, and 10 whose lives were lost, from this municipality alone. I now drop into the McAuley Mini Mall cafeteria for coffee, and with their permission join 2 guys and a gal about my age. We strike up a conversation that leads to discussion regarding the demise of smaller communities. The one gentleman said that it all fell apart when the elevator closed. But he also has another theory. His wife, having been a school teacher there, indicated that some 65 years ago, there where 27 bachelors in the R.M. of Archie, had they married and had at least 2 children (an additional 108 people) things may have taken a different direction. I say good math, but an improbable theory. Especially when he and his wife are retiring to Moosomin where his son already lives! Finishing up my coffee, I leave, and head south on PTH #41 for the hamlet of Manson. My stomach is becoming unsettled and I blame it on the McAuley water or the water they use for their coffee. Manson is about a ¼ of a kilometre east off #41, and a gopher sits up and greets me on my way in. Manson is a lonely old 4 home hamlet with a community rink that shelters the Mail boxes inside its entrance. It has 2 older abandoned churches overgrown with brush. From Manson I proceed directly west to Moosomin Saskatchewan.
(I will discuss the merits of Moosomin in a later article)
Now leap frog over to Hwy #1, also know as the Trans-Canada to Kirkella. This town has been replaced by a Manitoba Tourist and Information Centre and rest stop - end of story.
Elkhorn is the next stop. It has a stately old C.I.B.C. bank still operating, along with an elegant old red brick post office. Twin Valley Co-op also operates here in a community of 461 people The jewel, they say, in the Village of Elkhorn is the Manitoba Antique Automobile Museum. However, I can‘t confirm this. A bit of a pun here, but Elkhorn also has an Elks (fraternity) Hall. I also check out a local building that has been divided up into a few shops, each selling knickknacks and crafts.
Back on the Trans-Canda going east - farewell Elkhorn, hello Hargrave. Hargrave has a pre-terminal Viterra elevator system with huge tall round steel bins. The R.M. of Wallace has its municipal shops here, and there are about 3-4 older homes. Across the Hwy #1 is St Andrew’s United Church. With a bright red tin roof, you can’t miss it!
Next stop - “Gopher Creek” - now commonly know as Virden, a regional town and service centre of 3010 people. Virden is a mixed bag for me, part historical, part modern, part buoyant. It’s very much like Morden but minus the 50’s oil boom. It has stately older homes along with new housing south of town along Thomas Drive. It has an historic refurbished Civic Centre, an historic C.P. fieldstone Railway station, and the old “Alexandra Hotel" kitty corner to the rail station. There are two major streets - King Street and 7th Street S. Virden’s recreation facilities include an outdoor swimming pool with a 100 ft curved water slide. Like Morden, it has a farmers market - theirs is on Friday. Virden appears to be an active community, with most of life’s amenities, going about its daily business. It is also the home to well know wildlife artist Terry Mclean. I now bid Virden adieu.
I leave Virden, going east on PRR #238 for about 20 kms, turn north for about another 20 kms and arrive at Lenore. It is a hamlet comprised of an abandoned Pool elevator, an old faded abandoned service station still with it’s Gulf sign. There is a 1914 C.O.F. Hall with recent metal cladding. A beautiful old brick house and a large Presbyyterian church still remain along with a few homes. I slow down for some children playing on a yard and close to the street. I stop and chat a moment with a young mother who was raised here and has lived all her life in the area.
The welcome sign for Kenton reads, “ The best little town by a damsite!”I get the impression this is a “perky” town that wouldn’t be held down. Kenworth dam is within 2 kilometres of Kenton offering recreational facilities. The Kenton Co-op has served the area for 75 years. Add to this Economy Catering, Whyte’s Lumber& Insurance, Redfern Farm Services, and of course, Vanguard C.U. There is a large and what appears to be an active Legion Branch No. 118. There is almost a full block taken up by Woodworth Dodge Chrysler Jeep Ltd, with just a few used cars. By local accounts it does quite well and has another outlet in Shoal Lake to the north.It’s around 6 or 6:30 p.m. when I step into Kenton’s Houston’s Family Restaurant where there is one lone customer. It’s an older building tastefully decorated in an alternating tiny patterned blue and white wallpaper. It has an open kitchen, divided from the dining area by a counter and till. Two older customers arrive and seat themselves. I order, and begin chatting with the chap at the next table, who has a similar body profile to my own! He talks about Kenton as if he were the Mayor! He just loves and adores the place, having moved here after leaving Moosomin 12 years ago. I later find out from the Chef/owner that he is a grader operator for Woodworth Municipality, also celebrating its 125 years anniversary.
Harding, again east of Kenton on PRR #238, would be a painter’s delight. It’s all about old faded buildings of yesteryear - an abandoned store, garage, and outbuildings, with Canada Post boxes just off the road. Next to the 1914 Harding Agriculture hall are weathered and dilapidating Fair ground facilities. It is a picture of the past, including about 4 older homes.Bradwardine is a sad dying small village, with about a dozen homes, 1/3 of them vacant. It has 2 old, very faded abandoned elevators that are unidentifiable. I leave this small knit community with a sense of despair.Pushing onwards further east, I reach Wheatland, a hamlet of about a dozen homes, all 40’s and 50’s vintage.
Rivers is situated at the JCT of Hwy #25 and PRR #250. At Crosstown Tempo I only purchase $10 of gas, because of it’s price, which isn’t even stated on my receipt. It is an established town of 1193 people with a goodly number of amenities and a Hospital. There are 4 senior housing facilities, such as the recently built Westwood Lodge, but no other noticeable buildings. Its Credit Union is a Westoba branch. What is odd about this town from others, is that it has no Co-op services of any kind - no gas bar/ bulk fuels, no agri services, no hardware/lumber yard, no grocery store, nothing, In turn it has a fair sized independent Bigway Food store. This singular independence of mind must have been imbued by the pioneer, Sir Charles RIVERS-Wilson, who brought his Grand Trunk Railway across the plains, bringing promise and hope to settlers, and who may have never left, even when the Grand Trunk was taken over by CN.
Rapid City, neat name - slow pace, as I turn into the curve on PRR #270 north entering Rapid City, I notice that all there ball diamonds are full as evening begins to set in. It’s an uplifting sight and warms the heart. 416 souls reside here and it is so reminiscent of Ninette that it's uncanny. It has a water basin that adds to it allurement. It has the very minimum of services, like Ninette.Its homes are well spaced along gravel streets. The Legion’s Valley View senior Centre sits on a large lot in the middle of the village with attractive flower beds. Another reason for seeing Rapid City was the big too doo the M.T.S. made about it back in 1976 or 77, because it was the very last telephone exchange that went from a magneto exchange to dial phones. Imagine, in these days of cell, Blackberries, and iphones - crank phones? The MTS even gave out large yellow buttons announcing “No More Cranks”Taking PTH #24 east and #10 south, I hit cruise control, and roll into Brandon about 9 p.m. I top up my tank at Petro Can @ $1.359 and drift down Motel Lane. I bunk in at Barney’s Motel and make ready for day 4.
Day 4
After another good night’s sleep, I reload the van and head over to Smitty’s in Brandon on the Trans Canada. It’s around 7:30 a.m. and I’m surprised how few customers there are. From there I head south on PTH #10/18th St N. into the Assinboine basin. I turn left at PRR #459 otherwise know as Grand Valley Rd. and head west once more. #459 runs along the base of the north Assinboine valley starting out with Federal Research Station, and then dotted with yard sites and farms along the hillside to the jct of Hwy #1. This must be a pleasant, short, and scenic drive for those in and around Brandon.
Close to the Jct of Hwy #1 and 1A east you find the village of Kenmay. There is heavy traffic through this village of about a dozen homes, that straddle both sides of Hwy 1A.
Alexander, next on the Trans Canada west, lies on the CN main line. Main Street faces the railroad with Stah’s Food Mart, Dunee Designs Art & Crafts, and a recently abandoned elevator. There are a few new homes here.
Griswald is my next stop. It is a small hamlet, with a large Cenotaph. I come upon what seems to be an active MTS payphone in the semi entrance of what might have been a Hotel. This has me puzzled, but knowing MTS’s record keeping they probably don’t know about it either! It has other abandoned recreational buildings, and about 6 other homes. Griswold United Church is a breathtaking field stone structure erected in 1898, now a Provincial Heritage site. It appears to be in excellent shape, outside anyway. West of the Church is a recently vacated 2 story house whose brick structure seems intact. I start to visualise a Bed & Breakfast - the Trans Canada is a high traffic route, and a paved road, with ample mature trees, about ½ kilometre long, leads right to its doorstep. Dream on!
West down the Hwy where the Trans Canada takes a dip, south of the Hwy, lies Oak Lake. It has a 70’s Agriculture Society & Recreation Centre, with a separate Community Hall. There is a steel bell tower, and a mural on its Municipal maintenance shop. Commercially, there is the Perogy Pantry, Co-op, an early period classy Post Office, and Vanguard Credit Union.
Leaving this community of some 363 people I turn west again on the Trans Canada to the junction of PRR #254 and head south for Oak Lake Beach Provincial park. It is typical cottage country with cottages about 3 to 4 homes deep from the lakeshore, extending about 2 or 3 kilometres. There is a new development opening, called the Chokecherry sub division, behind the existing dwellings. I note to the east, an open area that appears to be a Golf Course, which it is. I drive through a newly made entrance and come upon the construction of a brand new Clubhouse. It is almost a 1/3 scale model of the one Morden has moved to their Golf course. That sort of blows me away! Well, this ends the formal part of my original plans, and I mentally prepare for the remaining homeward-bound journey.
I shall make comment on the places I have been, and not been, as I trek home.
PRR #254 takes me south to PTH #2 . At this corner, Murphy’s Salvage ( a used farm machinery parts supplier) has a huge inventory of used combines growing out of the ground. Just a kilometre east are the remains of Deleau, a former gas stop and restaurant turned residential, I think?
There is still a Pepsi sign, and a gas sign that reads 48.3, Oh! were that true! No 2 eastbound takes me to Souris, a natty place of 1772 folks.
It is still small enough to stave off the super sizers like Canadian Tire and Super Store, so it is my kind of town. The historic commercial section overlooks Victoria Park, which gives it a nice touch. It's noon, and on the recommendation of the gals in the town office, I enter Forbidden Flavours & Deli (proves women will always lead you astray!) It is just a tourist’s delight, not to mention for the locals as well. It is a turn of the century building, with a 14’ to 15’ foot ceiling. This is a metal ceiling in an attractive green coIour, with lovely hanging light fixtures that drop about 5 ft. The walls are sand - coloured, making it appear very open, airy, and expansive. There are 14 tables with bluish/green upholstered chairs. You wander to the back, select your drink out of the cooler or order one of their many coffee or tea specialties at the till, where you also place your order. They give you a large numbered card and you retreat to a table with your beverage and card #. There is a chicken cheese sandwich, a beef cheese sandwich and I can’t recall the 3rd item. I ask the owner/operator "Which is your best?" "We're moving a lot of chicken cheese." "Fine, give me a chicken cheese." Ten of the tables are already occupied. The crowd varies from teens, to young office ladies, to middle -aged, and seniors - a very mixed clientele indeed. My sandwich comes, and for the second time my taste buds rejoice over this succulent sandwich. So! If a women ever suggests to you, to go to a forbidden place, for goodness sakes, go man! After taking a quick tour of Victoria Park and its goose inhabitants, I gas up at Shell @1.359 a litre and point myself in the easterly direction of Carroll.
Carroll is about a kilometre south of #2, next to the CP rail line. As a matter of fact, CP has rail cars parked from here all the way to Souris 16 to 18 kilometres away. Carroll has an abandoned Don’s Grocery, and a metal clad Community Hall, as well as an equal number of new and older homes.
At a leisurely pace I drive through the villages along PTH # 2 and make a deliberate stop in Glenboro to see a long time ex MTS gal, who is not around.
Next village east - Cypress River ( I’ve always been intrigued by that name) south on PRR #342 from Cypress to PTH #23 and west to what remains of Rosebank. From here south to Morden, to “See History Unfold”.
I top up my gas tank at Rural Repair @ $1.359 a litre, then cruise over to the ever familiar Kopper Kettle for supper around 5:15 p.m. Later I drive on to my lane having completed 1801 kilometres in four days
I go into my home and greet Schpitzie my 17 year old cat, who doesn’t even ask where I have been.
Observations
1. I don’t know if there ever was, or will ever be, a late spring/early summer as green everywhere as this year. (except, as I tell my agri- buds for chemical spills)
2. I have a much greater appreciation of the sacrifices all these communities and districts made during The Wars when young lads & lassies were in their prime. Sacrifices then, whose numbers exceed some of the population remaining today.
3. A greater appreciation of the role of the Assiniboine River has, and the effects it had on pioneers and current communities.
4. The fact I did not see one motorcycle in my travels.
5. That there are a lot of Angus herds out there, to back up McDonald's claim about serving Angus burgers.
6. That the local papers still remain true to there communities.
7 The most prominent financial group is Vanguard Credit Union, with branches in 14 communities.
8. That the liquidation of the SAAN stores leaves communities like Neepawa, Minnedosa, Russell, Moosomin scrambling for an apparel and
general goods outlet.
9.The expiry date on many of our Highways and by ways, constructed 50 years ago is here..
10. That I literally drank litres of Coke’ s product NESTEA zero, which I consider to be the “nectar of the gods”
Till next time,….Cheers!
If you would like to enjoy a flashback moment in time from the 80’s, then the current movie Mamma Mia is your ticket. The producer/writers have skilfully taken the musical genius of 80’s hit group ABBA and weaved a cute story around their prodigious musical compositions The cast musically speaking may be a bit on the American Idol side, not really noted for there musical talents, however sufficient enough to pull it off with enthusiasm.
