Journey 2009

This will be my third journey to visit Manitoba towns, villages, and hamlets. My intent this year is to visit the communities surrounding Riding Mountain National Park and beyond. The Park is enclosed by three Hwy‘s - #5, #83, & #45.
It is like a misty English morning on Monday as I depart from Morden at 7:25 a.m, June 22nd.
The temperature is 17C.
I have all the provisions needed to sustain my health conditions along with the travel information I require. So, farewell, Morden & friends, hello, summer highways, as I check my odometer reading upon departure.
My starting point for this journey will be at the Jct of Hwy #16 & PRR #260, just west of Gladstone, or as some call it “Happy Rock”. I take the same route as last year - north on the Rosebank Rd. PRR# 432, turn west on PTH #23, then north on PTH#34 and head for Holland. Here I join the locals in the Hollander Motor Hotel for breakfast. I glance over at another table only to see Robin Flood, a chap I worked with at MTS. He was in town for Holland’s Fiddle Festival held the previous night. We chit chat and later both depart from Holland.
Back in the van, I continue north on PTH#34 across the Trans Canada to Hwy#16 and Gladstone. I top up my fuel tank at the Gladstone Co-op Gas Bar, and head west on Hwy #16 to PRR # 260.

From this point I begin my planned journey, so if you wish, grab an official Manitoba Map, and follow along on my Journey.

I begin travelling North on #260 between Hwy#16 and the C.N.R. rail line at Oglivie. This is where the new Amish settlements were established about 3 years ago in Manitoba. However, there is no Oglivie - it is long gone, not a trace of it. I spoke to one Amish person travelling in his one horsepower buggy and he indicated that 15 families had moved to this area. They do not wish to have their pictures taken, so I respected that. However, I have pictures of their large square two story homes and barn yard sites. There are signs posted on the Highways with a horse and buggy symbol indicating you are in Amish country.
Unlike us who are running about to and fro, concerned about the price of oil, you can be assured that they are not.
A little further north sits the village of Plumas. It appears prim and proper, with well maintained yards and fairgrounds. There is a mix of housing ranging from the 40’s to the70’s, a Stop & Shop Grocery, Austin Credit Union, modern Plum Inn - for sale or lease, Service shop, Insurance brokerage, P.O., curling rink, Cargill Farm Service Centre, and G.W.B. used Auto Sales.
Heading North again on PRR#260 I go to Tenby, just a km or two west off #260. I drive into a local Tenby area farmyard and speak with the gentleman owner. He informs me that all that is left of Tenby is the school, just a ¼ mile south on the municipal road parallel to the C.N. Rail line. Sure enough there is a small one room early cement block type school with maintained grounds.
Back to the #260 north to Watersee. There is a long abandoned Hall, but it has a General Store and active Christ Lutheran Church. There are about 5 - 50’s, 60’s vintage type homes in this hamlet.
I now proceed west 0n PRR#261 from Watersee to Glenella. Glenella is the “Broom Ball Capital of Manitoba” It has an abandoned Pool Elevator that is still in good shape. There is also the Beautiful Plains Credit Union, a small lumber yard, and a 1920’s vintage Hotel. It is about 1:00 p.m. when I spot Laurette’s Family Restaurant housed in a 1960 style building. There are three middle -aged ladies having coffee outside, puffing on their cigarettes. I greet them and enter the restaurant. The first person I see is Robin Copeland, a former Hydro man from Morden, who is just leaving, so we exchange greetings. He mentions he is working out of the Neepawa Hydro District, where he now lives. I order a turkey salad sandwich & fries, while 6 adults and a mother of 3 pre-schoolers grace the cafeteria. The village consists of a few dozen nicely kept homes, again 1960’s vintage.
A few kms west of Glenella on PRR#261 you can begin to view the very beautiful Riding Mountains. #261 west takes you to Hwy #5, then a few kms south on #5 and you arrive at the village of Riding Mountain. Riding Mountain is a very well treed area because of its close proximity to the base of the mountains. It boasts a repair shop, convenience store, with Post office and Bus Stop. Across the way is a 1940‘s/50’s Legion Hall, a mix of about 20 homes from 30’s to 70’s, that have a very "cottage" feel.
Backtracking north on Hwy #5 my next stop is Kelwood, a community about the same size as Riding Mountain. It also boasts a Royal Canadian Legion, Knox United Church, and older skating and curling rinks, a drop in centre, and Lucky Dollar Store/P.O. The Harvest Sun Café and Bake shop closed. Again there are about 20 or so homes.
Not too much further north on #5 is the Hamlet of Norgate It has a mix of older housing with spacious lots, a 1970’s Kingdom Hall, and a nice white painted, well maintained Anglican Church. There are no consumer services in Norgate.
My next stop on Hwy # 5 north is the village of McCreary, with a population of 487 souls. It has a Curling rink, Skating rink, and an accompanying Fair grounds, and a recently abandoned U.G.G. elevator. McCreary is a small size service centre, and has the McCreary -Alonsa Health Centre and Personal Care Home. Speaking with the village administrator, I learn that they have just filled their medical needs with a husband and wife doctor team. McCreary has Mountain Side Inn, RBC Financial Services in an old Royal red brick bank building still in use, P.O., Reischek's Pharmacy, Pizza Café, True Value Hardware, Library, and large Legion. The new R.M. and town office are housed in new buildings. It is nicely treed with a mix of older to newer homes, with a new style modern R.C.M.P. detachment. It boast a newer hotel, the Agassiz Park Lodge, for the winter skiing crowd.
The next stop is Laurier just west off PTH #5 on PRR# 480, surrounded by the flat prairie landscape. It is a small village with a large Roman Catholic church built in 1962. It has a curling rink and a 70’s era school. Delman Industries have two large 100+ ft long buildings, but I was unable to determine what they do. Molgat Shopping Centre houses Home Hardware & the Liquor Agency, with a large lumber shed across the road. It has a Lucky Dollar store that is closed, and Community Centre with a Caisse Populaire. I am speculating that Senator Gildas Molgat who was at one time the Liberal leader but never Premier, of Manitoba, hailed from this area.
Back tracking east on PRR#480 to PTH#5 and continuing east on PRR#380 and then north, I arrive at the one street hamlet of Ste Amelia. It has a large brown ashphalt clad Roman Catholic Church and graveyard. Across the street is a Community Hall. Ste Amelia has 7 older homes and one 70’s era house.
Now heading east on PRR# 380 to PTH#5, then north on #5 to Ste Rose du Lac. Ste Rose is a well kept town with all its business mainly on one street. Its only business brands are Petro Can and a Chicken Chef restaurant. It has the Curling rink, skating rink, and Community centre all in a row. It also hosts a Hospital facility.
Driving west on PTH#5 to the Jct of #480 and south to the hamlet of Makinak, which is now only a shadow of its former self. Another one street hamlet, with a curling rink and Community Hall, an abandoned Service station, and elevator. There is one large old commercial building now being used as a home, along with an abandoned brick church, and a smaller one which still appears to be active.
Going east from Makinak on PRR#582 then north to Ochre River one can see the Riding Mountains in the distance. Ochre River seemed like a community that had passed its expiry date. It had older homes with not much attention paid to the yards. They have a Curling rink with an outdoor skating rink, and a newly clad Community Hall. It has a shabby Hotel that was still open and a recent metal 3 stall fire Hall.
I leave Ochre River via Hwy#20 proceeding north towards Dauphin Lake and cottage country. There are two cottage areas at the south end of Dauphin Lake on PTH#20. One called Ochre Beach, and further north Dauphin Beach. It is typical cottage country with newer cottages and developments mixed among the existing ones.
I now head west on PTH#20 towards Dauphin and an overnight stay in this city. It is now around 8:30 in the evening as I roll into Dauphin, a well treed and well kept small city of 7,906 persons. I drive through its downtown area and proceed south on Main St/Hwy10A where I book into the Highland Motel. Before retiring for the evening, I gas up at the Co-op Gas Bar and lunch at the Pizza Hut a few doors south of my Motel. I then retire at the Highland for the evening.

Day 2
After a good night's sleep, I arose about 8:00 a.m. to what appeared to be another beautiful day. I packed the van and headed for Smitty’s Restaurant for breakfast. Not much action at Smitty’s as only one table was occupied in the large establishment. The server brought me a pot of coffee, which was convenient, and then I perused the menu. I placed my order for a skillet breakfast, and contemplated the new day. As I proceeded with my breakfast, the female server was most attentive, but not intrusive, and I find this uncanny. Perhaps this attention was because of the low breakfast turnout, I don’t know. My tummy satisfied, I ventured downtown to the city sites. My first stop was the Parkland Recreation Complex built in 1997, housing curling rink, arena, wave swimming pool, and 2000 seat entertainment venue, as well as a 211 meter rubberized 2 lane walking/running track. A fine impressive addition to the City of Dauphin, even with the loss of 180 souls since 2001. One thing that is noticeable about the Dauphin landscape is that it has only one highrise, about 8 stories high. After viewing the downtown, I headed over to the Fort Dauphin Museum on Jackson Street. It is a quaint little trappers' fort that takes up about 3 city lots. Constructed in 18th century style, it is a fur trading post with a blacksmith’s shop, trapper's cabin, a pioneer log home, dating from 1882, and a one room school built in 1894. Located outside the fort’s gates are flower beds with a variety of flowers. This is where I tested the flower setting on my camera, which turned out great. I continued north on Jackson and Keays Street until it becomes PRR#362, and continued north and west until I reached Valley River.
It was a clear day with a noticeably strong wind prevailing. Valley River lies on the flat of the land. The Vladmir and Olga Ukrainan Catholic Church is the centrepiece of this community, which has celebrated its 82nd anniversary. The Community Centre, built in 2002, sits across from the old centre. There are 7 homes and 3 abandoned ones.
Back to PRR#362 to Jct of 491 and west to Trembowla, site of the Cross of Freedom next to the Drifting River, where the first Ukrainian settlers arrived in 1896. St Michaels Church, built in 1898, along with other historic buildings - including a school, are located at this site.
Once again I backtracked on PRR#491 to PRR#362 and headed north to the village of Sifton. Like many of Manitoba’s villages, Sifton’s star has waned over the years, and the evidence of that is in its vintage buildings. There is the faded lettering on the once “A.T. Gniazdosky” Cockshutt Farm Implements building, the abandoned Kennedy General Store, the 70’s era Vault Café and Lounge. The commercial activity consists of Boauski’s Grocery, a small convenience store, Liquor Vendor and Post Office. There is a small Block Wood Furniture Manufacturing shop, but I was unable to determine its status. Sifton has Golden Harbour seniors' home, a Community Centre and an open air skating rink. The village has large spacious lots with a few new homes. On 3rd Avenue S.E. stands Sifton’s landmark - the Holy Resurrection Russian OrthodoxChurch.
It was built in 1926, and is now an historic site. Mary Maxim entrepreneur Willard McPhedrain began his international mail order company from humble beginnings here in Sifton. Known for its unique sweater designs, the company grew immensely and by 1955, had moved its operations to Dauphin. Mary Maxim continued to expand, and in 1959 moved again, to Paris, Ontario, where it still exists today. A Spinning Wheel Cairn was built in 2000 to recognize the founder of the Mary Maxim Company in Sifton.
I then proceeded east on PRR#267 out of Sifton to Jct Hwy#20, then North on #20 to Fork River. The traffic was very light, the wind still very strong, and the highway in excellent shape. The landscape along #20 to Winnipegosis is as flat as I’ve seen anywhere. It seems as if someone has rolled it flat. Unlike southern Manitoba, the farm yards are fewer and further apart, with numerous round grain bins on site as their signature. Fork River has about a dozen homes with a few newer ones, a recreation Centre and Community Centre. There is a cairn showing the location of all the schools in the R.M. of Mossey River. There is an older Pool elevator with a new steel bin annex, which I assumed is now a private venture.
From Fork River I proceeded east on PRR#364 and then north, hooking up eventually with Hwy #20 just before Winnipegosis. The rural landscape along PRR#364 does not change from what I have already seen. At the Jct of #20 Hwy, I proceeded north to Winnipegosis.
It lies on the south west shore of Lake Winnipegosis, and has 628 inhabitants. The abandoned railway line with its planted rows of trees provides a nice green space for the downtown one street business section. There is an old boat on display called the "Myrtle M." It was also being used as an All-Terrain Vehicle run at the time when I checked out 1st Street. The businesses on 1st Street consisted of George’s Garage, Winnipegosis Locker plant, Pharmacy, Hardware, Meat Market, Solo Store, Scotia Bank, and the Dauphin Plains Credit Union. The village has a pulse to it as people mill about. The Winnipegosis & District Health Centre houses the Hospital Senior suites and Personal Care Home. It has a nice spacious courtyard facing the Mossey River and the one lane bridge that crosses it at that point. It is a pleasant setting for this entire facility. It was now around 1:00 p.m. and I entered The Winnipegosis Motor Inn for lunch. I viewed the menu and waited as an elderly hostess slowly completed her tasks at the desk. She brought me a menu and I decided on the lunch special: ham, potatoes, pasta salad and a garden salad. It is a tasty and filling lunch. I dined with only one other customer present. I topped up the van with petrol at the “Foxy Gas Bar” down on the wharf. I then proceeded south on PTH#20 to the Jct of PRR#269 and headed west to Ethelbert.
The village of Ethelbert has suffered a loss of 23 people since 2001, so the population now stands at 312. The Fork River runs through it, and the community appears to have a Curling rink and skating rink that are in good condition. Its business services are Bird’s Corner Store, Rewniak’s Solo Store, Burdeniuk’s Service Centre, Andres Insurance Brokers, and Stetson Café & Grill. I spent some additional time prowling the streets looking for an airplane that has been converted into a house. I received this tip from a gal in Morden who claims it is located in Ethelbert. Alas no plane, so I visited the village office and mentioned it to the staff. They informed me that it is located in Garland, a hamlet 18 kms north on PTH#10.
I debated about going there, and in the end decided it’s not every day you see an airplane converted into a home, so off I went, travelling the 18 kms north on PTH# 10.









Garland is about 1Km east off PTH#10 at the base of the Duck Mountains, where the soil texture is light. I turned left on this single street hamlet on a soft road bed, and sure enough about the 4th or 5th lot in, I spotted the old Air Canada jet with wooden steps up to the cockpit. The motors have been removed and it appears to be a Vickers Viscount turbo prop, with Air Canada markings. It apparently was brought here 16 years ago by an ex pilot and it is his home. There was no one about in this hamlet of about dozen homes, so I took a few pictures of the jet, and proceeded to the south end of the Street. I entered Wasyluk’s General Store which has served the R.M. since 1924. It literally has everything, from fruits and vegetable products, meats, canned goods, frozen products, an assortment of oils & fluids, T shirts, footwear, kitchen utensils, cookware, camping cookware, an assortment of hardware and tools, to batteries. It was simply an amazing store, a real gem, with living quarters attached. A gentleman, probably in his early 60’ had taken over from his father and lives there with his elder mother. He indicated his supplier could no longer get certain items for the store. I then bought 2 bananas and bade him adieu. As I left I realized I had experienced a bygone era that today’s convenience stores can never capture. I was pleased I had made the choice to go the few extra few miles! Back on PTH#10 and going south, I reached the Jct of PRR#273, then went east on #273 until I reached the crossroads of Ukraina.
In one corner is a tiny long abandoned Ukrainian Church. North across the road is a well kept yard and modest home, with large stock of cord wood about 150 ft long and 4-5 ft high. West of this, and across the road again, is the Ukraina Community Centre, which still appears to be active.
Returning west on PRR#273 to PTH#10 I headed south again to the Jct of PRR# 267 and east to Jct #274, then south on #274 until I reach Venlaw.
Again. there are a couple of older homes at a crossroad, and an abandoned Community Centre and a former older repair or service garage. I continued south once again, driving through crop and cattle country as I neared Gilbert Plains.
Gilbert Plains is a small service centre of 760 people, with a Library/Fitness centre, Credit Union, old brick C.I.B.C. bank, Family Foods, large Consumer Co-op services centre, and large Agri Centre, a 1929 Post Office Building, and Royal Canadian Legion Br #98. The local elevator is run by Federowich Farms. Other amenities include a large school district, Gilbert Plains Heath Centre and senior housing, and the Gilbert Plains 18 hole Golf Course. I entered the older Gilbert Plains Hotel and had soup and a hot dog for supper. I left this very orderly town and headed east on PTH#5 to Ashville.
Ashville is just north of the Jcts of #5 & #10, between the Wilson River and the C.N.R. tracks. It is hamlet of 8 neat homes straddling #10 Hwy, with many outdoor Post Office boxes. I turned around and backtracked to Gilbert Plains, and found that just a few kilometres west of Gilbert Plains on #10 is a Brett-Young Seed plant.
I continued west on my sojourn to a town of 839 people, namely Grandview. In 1901, so the story goes, someone stood looking west of town toward the Duck Mountains, and made the statement “What a grand view!” And the name stuck! It is located in a picturesque valley between Duck Mountain Provincial Park and Riding Mountain National Park. Most of its businesses are on Main Street - the old brick Post Office, Cairn’s Pharmacy, Grand Auto Body, Credit Union, Motor Inn, C.I.B.C., and Home Hardware. The Wilson Centennial Campground has a baseball park with three diamonds, a swimming pool, a tennis court, a skating rink and a curling rink. The Watson Crossley Community Museum has been preserved here with displays that include a pioneer log house, pioneer artifice, school, church, and steam traction engine. A steam traction engine up high on two pillars is the town’s mascot at Main St. and #5 Hwy. Grandview also boasts a modern 18 bed hospital. I booked into the 8 unit Parkview Motel, put my personal effects in order, and readied myself for a good night’s sleep.

Day 3
I got up around 8:00 a.m., and on the advice of the Parkview Motel owner, headed down to the “Friendly Corner Bake Shop”. The bakery was about 1/3 full and everyone was helping himself to self serve coffee. The breakfast special is available until 10:30 for $4:20. I placed my order for bacon, eggs over easy, shredded potatoes, and dry rye toast. The opening to the kitchen is quite large and you can see all 8 employees busily mixing many different batters of dough. My breakfast was brought to me, and I noticed that the only 3 chairs available were at my table, as the bakery is now packed. As I consumed my breakfast, some mentally challenged people slowly entered the kitchen. There are nineteen of them - many hug the employees and some even help them. Next door, adjoining the bakery is a lounge and activity area for them. I checked out Home Hardware and then left Grandview on a high note.
I headed west on PTH#5 again to the Jct of PRR#584 then headed north to Shortdale. There is only a plaque at Shortdale, which was a lumbering community when the Rail line came in 1903. The Metis were to the south of it, and the Ukrainians and Polish immigrants north of the rail line. By the 1920’s it had about 200 residents. It was served by a blacksmith, 3 general stores, a pool hall, 2 dance halls and a school. In 1934 a grain elevator was built. By April 2007 the remaining buildings were destroyed by a grass fire. As I ascended the curve west out of Shortdale, a big brown ball of fur flew across the road in front of me and disappeared like a bolt of lightning. I’m sure it was a bear, but I could not see hide nor hair of it after it disappeared into the bush. That was my wild animal experience for this trip.
I continued on until I reached PTH#5 and proceeded west to Roblin. This town has taken a 146 person hit in population since 2001. However its hustle and activity does not reflect this. It has a complex with a newer curling and skating rink, an outdoor pool and waterslides, as well as a small ball park. It's medical facilities consist of a newer District Health Centre, hospital, Crocus Court Personal Home, W.E. Nash Medical Clinic, and Roblin District Ambulance Service. Downtown, there is a new RCB Royal Bank, Fields Store, Home Hardware, Piston Ring, Pharmasave, movie theatre, new IGA, new Credit Union, and new Co-op Food Market, McMinn & Yates building supply, and assorted other businesses. They also have Ford, G.M., and Chrysler dealerships, There is a very tiny lake at the south end of town, and at the east end, just north of Hwy #5 there are about 10 new homes as well as a new United Church. Shepherd Implements supply the area with New Holland and Case IH farm equipment. I pulled into the Roblin Co-op gas bar and Subway Restaurant. It is the first time I have encountered my favourite beverage - Nestea Zero ice tea, at both the gas bar and Subway. I had a Subway sandwich and departed Roblin via Hwy #83 north to the Jct PRR #593 to Deepdale.
This is another town which is no more, so I headed west and north on PRR # 484.
Mararoff is not found, or missed. This brought me to the Jct of PRR#363. I headed east on #363 to Hwy#83, then north on Hwy#83 to Jct of PRR#367.
A few kms east on #367 I encountered the hamlet of San Clare. It consists of about half a dozen recent homes and Post Office agent. It has a new Metis Centre and Legion Branch #237. A curling rink, playground, and one abandoned commercial building make up the rest of San Clare.
Further up the road is Boggy Creek where I believe music festivals have been held in the past. There is a sort of a 357A bypass on a curve at Boggy Creek, that has 2 older homes and an MTS Shack. I continued on to Jct of PRR #594. headed south on #594, and south again on Hwy #83 and Roblin. At Roblin I turned west on Hwy #5 and crossed the Lake of the Prairies near the Saskatchewan border. At the Jct PRR #482 I traveled south along the west side of the Lake of the Prairies to the hamlet of Dropmore.
Dropmore, a one time rail stop, has about a half dozen older cottages, a few mobile homes and two new log cabins for rent. There is a groomed area with a cenotaph memorial to honor the many War dead. A few kilometres south is the newly created Kilman Resort, with camping/RV facilities, cabins, and lounge. North of the Resort there is about a mile of new cottages along the shore line, with various contractors milling around. Further south on PRR#482 I reached the Shellmouth dam site, where I spent a little time surveying the valley in which Lake of the Prairies was created. It was now 4:12 p.m. on this beautiful day, and I hoped to reach Russell before nightfall. I continued south to the Jct PRR #549 then headed west on #549 until I reached the hamlet of Shellmouth.
Shellmouth could be considered a quaint place that reminds me of La Riviere, with a shallow wide valley. It contains about a half a dozen older homes scattered over 2 streets, with the Assiniboine River meandering close by. I backtracked east on PRR #549 to the Jct of PRR #482 then continued east on #482. On this stretch you come across the Asessippi Ski Resort, which opened in 1999, just in time for the 21st Century. It is a fine modern facility, with 24 downhill runs, lodges, and cabins. Upon reaching Hwy # 83, I turned north for a few Kms then east at the Jct. of PRR # 366, and headed for the village of Inglis.



It is 5:00 p.m. and I’m concerned that the five Grain Elevators - now a National & Provincial Historic Site and a Manitoba Star attraction, may be already closed for viewing. I arrived in the small village to find that the elevators are open until 5:30 p.m. which gave me a half an hour to tour. As I entered the Paterson Elevator office, I question why I am paying a $5:00 fee to see an elevator, when as a young lad I delivered grain directly to the elevator from the field, and was in and out of elevators for most of my teens. It suffices to say nostalgia took over, and I returned to those wistful days of yesteryear. There are five Prairie Giants as they call them, the Paterson, Reliance (2), National, & U.G.G.
It appeared odd that the “Pools” were not represented in that they had a profound effect on the entire prairie cultural and grain business. An elevator was built in 1922 by Matheson-Lindsay, between the UGG and Paterson elevators. It was later sold to Province Elevator, which became Reliance in the 1930s. In 1941, Reliance added its second, and newest elevator of the five. This complex was then sold to Manitoba Pool in 1952, and finally to UGG in 1971. A young third year history student
“Haylan”gives me the tour and asked where I was from. I said Morden and she replied that she had an aunt Cheryl Digby who lived in Morden. I replied I had not met her, but did know she was employed by the town. Inglis consists of 3 streets and 3 avenues and has a population of about 200 people.It has a tennis court, an outdoor basketball court, a natural ice indoor skating arena with the elevator murals, and a curling rink with three sheets of artificial ice. Main Street businesses consist of Inglis Hotel, the Prairie Grill, Roblin C.U., and Jordie’s Food Market.
One of the buildings has a lot of potted greenery out front and I am unable to determine if it is a garage, or plant shop. It beckons me, so I park and enter the premises. I am greeted by a large German Shepherd, who gaves me a sniff security check, and then wandered off. I glanced about, and noticed one side is mostly automotive stock and the other notions, soaps, scarves, and towels. The silence is broken by impeccable quality English, that greets me, and I immediately realize this gal is not local. "Can I help you?" "No, I’ve just come from touring the elevators and I’m just browsing around." I ask, "You're not from around here?" "No, I’m from Toronto," she replies. "TORONTO! You're like the gal on Corner Gas. How did you wind up here?" "I have some friends here, and was looking for a smaller, quieter place, but this might be a bit smaller and quieter than I anticipated. I’ve been here for three years now." She asks me where I’m from, and I reply Morden. "Morden - I’m trying to get a vendor spot in the Corn & Apple Festival, and haven’t heard from them yet." I tell her I can check with the Morden Chamber when I get back, if she can give me a business card and her e-mail address, which she does. I ask her if I can get a picture of her, which she allows, and tells me she is third generation Chinese Canadian. Her friend operates the Inglis Country Service Centre, while she operates under the name “Secrets from the Garden” under the same roof. As it is 6:30 p.m or later, I indicated my wish to get to Russell and get a bite to eat at Connie’s Drive In. She says she knows Connie and asks me to say Hi to her. I bid her adieu and rushed west on #366, turned south on Hwy #81 and cruised to Russell - some 16 kms south. In route I kicked myself for not having purchased an item from her.
Connie’s Drive-In is right on Hwy #16 - an orange building next to the A&W, with a Chicken Chef to the west of that. A Filipino lady came to the window and I handed her a Morden Kopper Kettle business card with Albert & Shelia Cabildo’s name on it. I asked her if she knows them, “Yes, it’s my kid sister." I ordered a cheese burger and fries. As I waited for my order, a gentleman of about 40 advised me that if I continued driving at a high speed my tire would blow out. I was aware my tires were becoming bald, but I wanted to get the last lick out of them on this trip. I asked him jokingly if he made a habit of checking people's tires. He said "Yes, I’m a tire man." I looked up to see that he was driving a Fountain Tire truck with the big blue Fountain logo. He pointed out that the steel braid is now exposed on my tire. My food order was called and I sat at one of the picnic tables contemplating my tire status. I ate gingerly, as my stomach seemed a bit queasy. I now began my search for lodging. I checked out the Jolly Roger Motel. It seemed a bit pricy and the Russell Inn, owned by the same group is out of reach for me. The Hub Hotel only has second floor rooms, which are also a bit dear. I then checked my tourist material for a Bed & Breakfast, and came up with Sanderson’s Hill. I went to the address - only Chinese occupants speaking broken English. It was getting late, I have a worn tire, so I reluctantly booked into the Jolly Roger, and received a $5.00 coupon for breakfast that could be used at the Russell Inn. As I began to unload the van, I heard a voice from the parking lot call out "Morden". A gentleman approached me and I saw that it was Henry Thiessen from Morden. He asked me if I had supper. I said yes, but that I could still join him for his. I asked him what he was doing in Russell. He replied that artificial insemination of horses brought him this way. We discussed his family and grandkids, his well-witching in both Kenya and locally, and his rare model Jeep. Henry is a hearty eater, and polished off his salad, roast beef, and dessert in a timely manner. It was around 9:45 p.m. when we both returned to the Jolly Roger Motel and turned in. I found the bathroom to be a very cramped facility as I prepared for bed. So ended Day 3 of my journey.

Day 4
I arose around 7:00 a.m. although I did not sleep well, which is a rarity. Once again it was a beautiful day as I entered the dining area of the Russell Inn. The breakfast menu has little under $10.00, but I ordered my standard poached eggs, sausage, hash brown potatoes, dry rye toast, and coffee. When I received my breakfast I noticed the egg yokes have an orange tinge to them but no difference in taste. When I questioned her, the waitress informed me that they were Omega eggs which are healthier. Perhaps the reason their breakfasts are in the $10 - $15 range as opposed to the normal $5.00 -$6.00, is because of the coupon. This kept me on budget!
I cruised over to Russell Tire on my exposed bald tire, to find the co-owner just opening up and no customers in sight. I pointed out my dilemma and he directed me to drive into a stall. He brought out his top of the line Goodyears at about $120 each. I informed him I did not want a set of tires that exceeded the value of my van. He understood, and found a pair at $84 apiece, installed, made by Goodyear under another name. I said it was a deal and to put them on. I noticed they had a similar tread design to my originals. By 9:00 a.m. I was back on the road, very confident I would make it home.( I have no by-line on the town of Russell as I covered it in my Journey 2008 trip. (See pumphandle Blog Archive July/2008).
I left Russell via Hwy #45 east to Silverton, which has a few homes, an abandoned 2 story brick house, a rink and Community Hall. It has an abandoned U.G.G. elevator but no rail line. What stands out is a very immaculate older white United Church. Continuing east my next stop is Angusville.
This is a small village that has a dozen or so homes, and a 2 block main street that is closed down except for the R.M. of Silver Creek and Vanguard Credit Union. It has the appearance of a ghost town. Staying on Hwy #45 you pass along the top and east corner of the Waywayseecappo First Nations Reserve before reaching Rossburn. With its population of 546 people, Rossburn has a pulse and activity on its streets. Their businesses consist of a Co-op Gas bar, Vanguard Credit Union & Financial Services, Home Hardware, Rossburn Pharmacy, Parkway Co-op Grocery Store, L P K Enterprises, a Liquor vendor, and a 70’s era District Health Centre and Personal Care home. Interestingly they have only one Church - The Rossburn Community Church. It’s a "feel good town".
I headed north on PRR #577 to the crossroad at Olha. I had a curious reason for coming to this overlooked prairie outpost, and that was to check out the origins of Mike Swistun, whom I stumbled across in my internet travels. He was billed by Ringling Brothers Barnum & Bailey Circus as the “Strongest Man in the World,” when he toured with the world famous troupe during the summer of 1923. Mike could bend iron bars with his teeth, support five men on his stomach, and hold two automobiles at a stand-still with his massive arms. During the 1920s, he performed many of the illusions which astounded rural crowds across the West when he toured the small towns each winter. Mike passed away in 1980, and his poignant life story can be checked at: http://www.mhs.mb.ca/docs/mb_history/03/strongestman.shtml
Olha is some 14 or so Kms north of Rossburn on PRR #577. At the crossroads of Olha, in the northwest corner, is St. Michael's Ukrainian Catholic Church. It has a spectacular interior. painted in 1927 by Jacob Maydan, a well-known church painter. In the northeast corner is the Olha General Store, and in the southeast corner, the Community Hall. I entered the Olha General Store which is a small house with a detached garage and one room which is used as the store. It is crammed with food stuffs. Two ladies are engaged in discussion, one a customer, the other the owner/operator - a lady in her mid to late 60’s. I asked her if she is aware of the “Strongest Man in the World,” coming from this area. She replied that she knew him personally, his son Paul, and his grandkids, whom she kept on occasion. She knew where they currently are and still keeps in contact. Her name is Marion Koltusky and she’s been in the Olha area all her life. Mike would show her all kinds of binder twine string tricks, along with his illusions. He was shunned by the locals and often taken for a vagrant, even in Rossburn. She told me that the son, Paul, lives on the home farm one mile east of Olha and about a 1/4 mile south. He has a threshing machine at the entrance to his lane. (S.W.36-19-22W.) She also told me that a little further south of Mike’s and about ½ mile are the buddas, small tent shaped pole structures with roofs of hay, the kind Mike was born in, in 1900. She also told me of the Ukrainian Monuments 2.5 miles south of Olha on PRR #577 next to Patterson Lake. I purchased a pack of sunflower seeds from her and thanked her for her valuable and useful information. Oddly enough when I got home, Saturday’s Winnipeg Free Press featured an article on Marion Koltusky and the Olha General Store (June 21/09). I checked out the Mike and Paul Swistun farm site and the buddas, then returned to Olha and PRR #577 and went south the 2.5 miles to the Ukrainian Historic Site The signage sent me about one mile west on a little used municipal road to the shores of Paterson Lake. Here is a large granite monument that has been erected to commemorate the one hundredth Anniversary of the Ukrainian Settlement in Canada -1891 - 1991. At this location a reburial has taken place with a stone Cairn and plaque honouring the memory of the forty-two children and three adults who died tragically in a scarlet fever epidemic in May 1899 (10th - 30th) at Patterson Lake, during the Slavic immigration to Manitoba. From this solemn site I returned east to PRR #577 and south, back to Rossburn.
At the Jct of Hwy #45 I turned east to Oakburn. This hamlet of about 20 or so homes is a dwindling community, but has a Ukrainian Catholic and a Ukrainian Orthodox Church as well as a Catholic Church which also has a Parish Hall. Oakburn has a Memorial skating rink and curling rink. It has the Strathclair Credit Union and Vanguard Financial Services. This is the first place I found an outdoor pumphandle water pump, so I take a picture. It must be a patriotic area as it flies nine Canadian Maple Leaf flags on a corner lot coming into town. It was 1:00 p.m., a warm day, and a snack would be nice! I pulled up in front of the Oak-Site Grocery & Liquor Vendor. There were all sorts of promotional signs outside the store, boasting that they have fresh coffee every 20 minutes, fresh rib eye - emphasis on "fresh". It’s an older building, very neat and clean, and the store operator asked if he could help. I mentioned I was looking for some pre-packaged sandwiches, subs, or burgers. We don’t have any, as we make them up fresh from the Deli, he told me. I had him make up a pepperoni & cheese sandwich on brown bread with lettuce. It was indeed fresh, delicious, and tasty. I then bought a pepperoni stick for the road. It was now 2:00 p.m. and I headed east on Hwy #45 to Menzie
Menzie consists of a few older homes, a church, and a Ukrainian Hall.
Continuing east is Elphinstone, nestled on the north bank of the Little Saskatchewan River. Taking PRR #354 across the river, there is a mix of modest older homes, an older red brick R.C.M.P. station, The Valley View Hotel, Hilltop Groceries, and a large 70’s era metal clad Memorial Hall. The first Post Office was established August 1. 1887 and its first postmaster was John A. McDonald. Just north of Elphinstone is the Keeseekkoowenin Reserve.
Eleven kms further east on Hwy #45 there is a large blue and yellow circular sign announcing Sandy Lake, a Community with a Pioneer Spirit. By 1910 Ukrainian immigrants had a hold on this area, and it became an unincorporated village on June 15, 1939. I found that Sandy Lake is a delightful surprise and hideaway, as I traveled its streets and lake area. I estimated there would be 200 -350 people here. It is a Agri-resort town with 40’s - mid 70’s housing and cabins. It does not have the mega $500,000+, cottage castles yet. I found it a quaint, serene, and restful village with the amenities and the activity at a level, I could handle. The lake shore is enticing and the drive along it, oh! so pleasant. It appeared to be a secret resort area with fishing, swimming, camping, and golfing. For services there is the Sandy Lake Credit Union, Dollar Store, Hardware, Hotel, Auto Service, Locker Plant, and Park Insurance Agency. There is also the Heritage Co-op, and Country Floral & General Store. The local elevator is under the ownership of the Lewandoski family. I left feeling as if I had come upon a prairie gem.
Onward - on Hwy #45 east to the junction of PRR #270 where I turned north to Rackham. Rackham does not make any appearance, so I wrote it off as a ghost town, and continued north to the Jct of #354 and east to Onanole.
Onanole is the typical "out of Park" commercial resort centre. Its off season population is around 400 people. The entrance to Onanole is marked with a huge statue of an elk. It has a Food Store, Home Hardware, Fast Gas, South Gate Motor Inn, and assorted other shops. There is a Recreation Centre with a Skating and curling rink, plus a senior centre. I was now southward bound on Hwy # 10 to Erickson.
Erickson has gained 8 people since 2001 for a total population of 456 people. However, with the hive of activity on the streets you would think it was much more. Perhaps because its elevation of 2054 feet makes it the highest town in Manitoba, or the fact is was originally settled by Scandinavian people - take your pick! This activity is generated by Canada Post, Erickson Credit Union, Heritage Co-op, a Library, M&M Grocery, Mountain Park Pharmacy, RBC Royal Bank, Rona, and the Nordic Inn. At the west end of Main Street there is Viking Ship monument, with a pond-like tiny lake behind it. I topped up my van with fuel at the Co-op Gas Bar and departed. I traveled Viking country via Hwy #10 south to the Jct of PRR #357, then east toward Bernie.
It was about 18 years ago that I drove the scenic #357 called Mountain Road. There are no communities on Mountain Road between Hwy’s #10 & 5. It is sloping countryside where you can see for miles to the east and south. There are no distractions like advertising signs, only road signs. So what you see are grain fields, hay fields, pastures, cattle, horses, and beautiful farm yards. It takes about 30-45 minutes, depending on your speed, to reach Hwy #5. It is a calm but exhilarating drive. One I would recommend if you are in the area.
I turned north at the Jct of Hwy #5 and traveled to Jct PRR #352, and headed east again to Birnie.
Bernie is hamlet of about 6 or 7 old and new houses on spacious lots with immaculate grounds in golf course shape, with one particularly well maintained 2 story brick home. The entire hamlet sits on a very flat and even plane.
I backtracked on PRR #352 to Hwy #5 and sped south to Eden. There are no “Gardens” here, so it is not the Biblical location mentioned in Genesis. It is another small village with about 15 to 18 homes of 50 -60’s vintage, and one small commercial operation called Penno‘s Machining & Manufacturing. There are no other services. They do have a sense of humour, in that their mock Fire Hall is about the size of a garden shed. I crossed over Hwy #5 and proceeded west on PRR #265 to Polonia.
Polonia is touted as one of the most beautiful valleys in Manitoba. At the bottom of the valley on the westerly side sits the beautiful white St. Elizabeth's Roman Catholic Church, beside it to the west a well cared for Grotto, and west of that, the Community Hall and parking lot. The area was settled by the Polish and Ukrainian immigrants from the old Austrian - Hungarian Empire in the 1890‘s. The Poles gradually drove the Ukrainians away from the area and it became a predominantly Polish Community. Now up the west embankment to the Jct of PRR # 262, south on #262 to Clanwilliam.
Clanwilliam is home to the Rolling River First Nations Reserve. It has about a dozen homes, a General Store and Post office, and an abandoned grain elevator. I proceeded south on PRR #262 to the Jct of PRR #471, then east on # 471 for about 6 -7 kms, Bethany is a few kms south off #471. Currently Bethany has about a dozen or so homes - some untidy - and no services. Bethany Motors, an auto wrecking operation, is the only enterprise. Harvey I. Pollock, Q.C., of Winnipeg, and famed World Whistler, attended a country school for grades 1 to 4., in the early 40’s. As the evening progressed I took the municipal road north to PRR #471 and turned east to Hwy #5.
I had now completed my intended journey, so I turned south on Hwy #5 to Neepawa.It was my intention after lunching and snacking for four days, to treat myself to a decent supper. I pulled up to Mr. Rib’s Family Restaurant at the N.W. corner of Hwy’s #5 & #16. It was 8:00 p.m. when I entered this very large, high -ceilinged, and spacious restaurant. At this time there was only one other customer. I ordered their special ($17.75 including tax) which was a Rib eye steak, stuffed potato, rice & vegetables, plus a garden salad. It was excellent, and I savoured every morsel of it! It was now 9:00 p.m. as I topped up the van at the Neepawa Co-op Gas Bar for my return home. I pointed my van south on Hwy #5, set the cruise control, and headed off. I went east at Hwy #23 to Rosebank, and then south on PRR #432. I arrived home at 11:00p.m., June 25th/09.

Observations
1. With the late spring, crops were delayed across the entire province.
2. Church domes were very prevalent in the region I travelled, as opposed to the steeples of Southern Manitoba.
3. Many Ukrainian, Polish, and Slavic immigrants suffered tragic fates at the turn of 20 century, yet still survived to build vibrant communities across Manitoba.
4. There is a lake for almost every herd of cattle around Riding Mountain Park.
5. The Co-op Gas Bars & Convenience stores are the most up- to- date and predominate supplier of fuel and junk foods.
6. There is a story in every nook & cranny, even in the most remote of areas!
7. Total mileage of trip 1753 km or 1089 miles.

Till next time,….Cheers!